I bought this tool from a japan recycling shop. It does not work properly. There is something went wrong with the armature and field. It starts to heat up after running, then more and more smoke comes out. Suddenly I knew it was gone. To fix it, I need to rewind an armature and field again, but I want to use it with batteries rather than electricity. I spent more than a week to do this project, finally I can do it, and you can see it is in this video.
18v Makita LXT Power Pack - Cordless to Corded Conversion
I have constructed a 110v / 240v 33A 18v DC corded power supply for Makita's current range of 18v tools.
I own quite a lot of the above tools which includes some of the more power hungry tools like the DHR242 brushless SDS Plus drill and the DGA454 brushless 115mm angle grinder and they eat batteries for fun, so lately I wore out yet another 3ah battery so was faced with the following dilemma:
Splash out good money on yet another battery for an upcoming big DIY home project or source a bunch of bits and have a power supply to offload the stress on my existing batteries when working at home.
Simple, build a supply. Lets rock....
Prerequisite and warning:
Big power supplies are a totally different beast to laptop / wall mains adapters / small open frame supplies so I can't stress enough the potential to do yourself serious harm if you don't know what your doing. At the very best your going to get a nasty burn off this bad boy so please please be careful. If in doubt, get someone who is proficient in electronics to help you. This is not a comprehensive guide, merely an indication of how I went about it.
This is an Astec MP4 400w/600w 18v Power supply which runs at 110v as well as 240vac. I picked this up for a bargain on ebay. If you can't find an 18v one go for 24v or 15v and adjust the trim accordingly.
Once the batteries had been gutted out of the case I originally soldered the 2 6mm2 wires on, packed it all up and glue gunned it. A quick test revealed that the 18v contacts were good but none of the "starred" tools would work.
This is because there is a third pin on the battery which also has to supply 18v. Check out the picture showing the solder on the PCB and copy the soldering to create a bridge. 18v is now permenantly on the third pin.
Once i'd got a decent solder connection I re-glued every thing and drilled the underside of the battery cover with a 20mm hole saw to accept the gland. Connections from the cable to the battery wires were joined with a 60A terminal block.
I cut out a square hole on the underside of the case. This is where the airflow comes in from through a square of filter wool which fits in between the base of the box and the steel frame which the PSU is screwed to.
The IEC socket and switch/fuse holder were drilled with a 10mm pilot hole then filed with a square file until everything fitted.
The supply cables to the Anderson plug are 6mm2. I can always upgrade the trailing flex to 6mm2 at a later date.
I soldered the wires into the pins on the Anderson plugs so I know there's a good contact.
The connection to the PSU is crimped with 5mm eyelets.
I checked that the polarity was correct before connecting any tool the PSU. A continuity test to the battery terminals was done as well - just to be sure.
You can see that the fan and finger guard is also connected now. The little DC DC buck circuit is heatshrinked and just sits tucked to one side inside the case.
I bought this tool from a japan recycling shop. It does not work properly. There is something went wrong with the armature and field. It starts to heat up after running, then more and more smoke comes out. Suddenly I knew it was gone. To fix it, I need to rewind an armature and field again, but I want to use it with batteries rather than electricity. I spent more than a week to do this project, finally I can do it, and you can see it is in this video.
18v Makita LXT Power Pack - Cordless to Corded Conversion
I have constructed a 110v / 240v 33A 18v DC corded power supply for Makita's current range of 18v tools.
I own quite a lot of the above tools which includes some of the more power hungry tools like the DHR242 brushless SDS Plus drill and the DGA454 brushless 115mm angle grinder and they eat batteries for fun, so lately I wore out yet another 3ah battery so was faced with the following dilemma:
Splash out good money on yet another battery for an upcoming big DIY home project or source a bunch of bits and have a power supply to offload the stress on my existing batteries when working at home.
Simple, build a supply. Lets rock....
Prerequisite and warning:
Big power supplies are a totally different beast to laptop / wall mains adapters / small open frame supplies so I can't stress enough the potential to do yourself serious harm if you don't know what your doing. At the very best your going to get a nasty burn off this bad boy so please please be careful. If in doubt, get someone who is proficient in electronics to help you. This is not a comprehensive guide, merely an indication of how I went about it.
This is an Astec MP4 400w/600w 18v Power supply which runs at 110v as well as 240vac. I picked this up for a bargain on ebay. If you can't find an 18v one go for 24v or 15v and adjust the trim accordingly.
Once the batteries had been gutted out of the case I originally soldered the 2 6mm2 wires on, packed it all up and glue gunned it. A quick test revealed that the 18v contacts were good but none of the "starred" tools would work.
This is because there is a third pin on the battery which also has to supply 18v. Check out the picture showing the solder on the PCB and copy the soldering to create a bridge. 18v is now permenantly on the third pin.
Once i'd got a decent solder connection I re-glued every thing and drilled the underside of the battery cover with a 20mm hole saw to accept the gland. Connections from the cable to the battery wires were joined with a 60A terminal block.
I cut out a square hole on the underside of the case. This is where the airflow comes in from through a square of filter wool which fits in between the base of the box and the steel frame which the PSU is screwed to.
The IEC socket and switch/fuse holder were drilled with a 10mm pilot hole then filed with a square file until everything fitted.
The supply cables to the Anderson plug are 6mm2. I can always upgrade the trailing flex to 6mm2 at a later date.
I soldered the wires into the pins on the Anderson plugs so I know there's a good contact.
The connection to the PSU is crimped with 5mm eyelets.
I checked that the polarity was correct before connecting any tool the PSU. A continuity test to the battery terminals was done as well - just to be sure.
You can see that the fan and finger guard is also connected now. The little DC DC buck circuit is heatshrinked and just sits tucked to one side inside the case.
No comments:
Post a Comment