## Wednesday, July 31, 2024

Easily Check 555 IC with Multimeter || How to Test IC 555 using Multimeter

Here I will give a small circuit that will test whether the 555 timer you just tried in another circuit (and it either heated up or didn't work at all) works or not.

Have you ever wondered if it was your circuit, or whether you might have fried your 555? Well here is a way to test the little chip quickly and easily.

Parts and cautions.

Depending on your hearing or what you find best as far as the sound produced by the output, you will need to figure out what resistors and capacitor you wish to use for the timer section of the circuit.

This is an stable multivibrator circuit. When the switch is closed, the output is a square wave at the frequency determined by C1, R1 and R2.

The calculations needed to find the values ​​are as follows:

f = 1.44 / (R1 + 2R2)

The period (time - t) of the circuit is found with: t = 1/f = 0.69(R1 +2R2)

The high and low times of each pulse can also be calculated with:

High time = 0.69(R1 + R2)

Low time = 0.69(R2

Take note that it is practical to keep the values ​​of R2 between 1K and 1M. To keep the duty cycle around 50%, use R1 = 1K.

As I said, it is pretty straight forward. If you get one of the PC boards made to put the socket in the center column of the board, and it has traces that go from the initial solder point outwards and fan out a bit for easier soldering.

Solder in the parts and wires to connect the various parts as shown in the schematic.

Remember to solder pin 2 to pin 6. Solder the decoupling capacitor, C3 (not shown) between Power in and ground if you are not using a battery. If you wish to use the optional frequency adjustment, add it in series with R1. Power goes to pin 4 (5-15 v DC). R2 is the connection from pin 6 to pin 7. Since we are not going to use pin 5, the control voltage, we should decouple it to ground with a 10 nF capactor (C2:-).

Once you have all the parts soldered in, and have tested the circuit. You can add the Pot. inline ie in series with, R1 or R2 (I used R1 so I could adjust the duty cycle as I wished).

Find a decent box to put it in and remember to allow for a place to get to the socket so you can use this as a tester.

The entry point for the timer was altered and made so much more neat. I used an old gold colored aluminum card blank and cut the hole after measuring it for my location.

Easily Check 555 IC with Multimeter || How to Test IC 555 using Multimeter

Here I will give a small circuit that will test whether the 555 timer you just tried in another circuit (and it either heated up or didn't work at all) works or not.

Have you ever wondered if it was your circuit, or whether you might have fried your 555? Well here is a way to test the little chip quickly and easily.

Parts and cautions.

Depending on your hearing or what you find best as far as the sound produced by the output, you will need to figure out what resistors and capacitor you wish to use for the timer section of the circuit.

This is an stable multivibrator circuit. When the switch is closed, the output is a square wave at the frequency determined by C1, R1 and R2.

The calculations needed to find the values ​​are as follows:

f = 1.44 / (R1 + 2R2)

The period (time - t) of the circuit is found with: t = 1/f = 0.69(R1 +2R2)

The high and low times of each pulse can also be calculated with:

High time = 0.69(R1 + R2)

Low time = 0.69(R2

Take note that it is practical to keep the values ​​of R2 between 1K and 1M. To keep the duty cycle around 50%, use R1 = 1K.

As I said, it is pretty straight forward. If you get one of the PC boards made to put the socket in the center column of the board, and it has traces that go from the initial solder point outwards and fan out a bit for easier soldering.

Solder in the parts and wires to connect the various parts as shown in the schematic.

Remember to solder pin 2 to pin 6. Solder the decoupling capacitor, C3 (not shown) between Power in and ground if you are not using a battery. If you wish to use the optional frequency adjustment, add it in series with R1. Power goes to pin 4 (5-15 v DC). R2 is the connection from pin 6 to pin 7. Since we are not going to use pin 5, the control voltage, we should decouple it to ground with a 10 nF capactor (C2:-).

Once you have all the parts soldered in, and have tested the circuit. You can add the Pot. inline ie in series with, R1 or R2 (I used R1 so I could adjust the duty cycle as I wished).

Find a decent box to put it in and remember to allow for a place to get to the socket so you can use this as a tester.

The entry point for the timer was altered and made so much more neat. I used an old gold colored aluminum card blank and cut the hole after measuring it for my location.