Rewiring a SmartDrive motor for hydro/wind generator
Generally, the reason why you rewire it is because it lowers the voltage and increases the available amperage, making the generator more suitable for 12v - 24v systems.
If you are planning to rewire one of these Fisher and Paykel/Whirlpool motors, etc., I would recommend doing so on a copper stator as the 36 pole aluminum wired ones are difficult to solder.
I rewired a copper 42 pole stator, but all you really have to do for other stators is to follow the diagram carefully, you should be able to locate the sections and wires on the stator easily; And when snipping a wire, cut in the center of it (where it connects 2 poles).
This is a tutorial for my smart drive base wind turbine. this is a complex project and i had already built it before i started this tutorial so it wont go into everything but i will try.
Materials:
50mmX75mmX600mm box section steel (for frame)
Solid or laminated wood suitable for blades.(will get sizes when we get to that step)
Two smart drive washing machine motors, including bearings and two shafts.
some plywood or metal sheet for the tail.
50mmX5000mm thick walled pipe (for top of tower)
Thick walled pipe with an inside diameter of 50mm and 150mm long for pivot.
some 20mmX2000mm pipe for tail
other assorted pieces of small metal for other parts we will get to.
lots of thick gauge insulated wire (for rewiring stators)
50mmX5000mm box section for tower.
Heavy gauge insulated two core wire to run the power from your wind turbine to where you want the power.
Tools:
Welder
hacksaw
grinder
drill and drill bits
bandsaw
tablesaw
thicknesser (i used this for machining parts of the blades but this maybe done by hand.)
carving tools
other assorted hand tools.
The frame is made out of 75mmX50mm hollow steel, with an angle section welded on one end to act as a rest for the tail and a section of one of the shafts of the smart drive washing machine motor has been welded on an angle of 30 degrees back and to the side away from the stator to provide furling for the tail. The bearing mount for the generators is made out of some flat stock and round stock with a bolt to lock the bearing assembly in. To make this simpler I would do way with the mount that I made and make u-bolts to go over the bearing assembly and lock it down on the frame. The swivel is a piece of the 75mmX50mm box section with a 150mm length of 50mm inside diameter pipe welded on the bottom for the swivel. This is all held on by two u-bolts to allow adjustment for the furling.
The tail is the 200mmX20mm steel pipe welded to a section of pipe with a 30mm inside diameter at an angle of 55 degrees with a gusset for strength, this is the swivel end. The other end has a piece of plywood or metal sheet bolted to it, this needs to be about 700mm square at least.
to mount the two stators on one shaft the shaft had to be modified the spline has been extended to fit new position of the magnetic rotor this was done by an engineer. The bearing holder is set up so the stator can go on both ends so the second stator was just bolted on the other end.
The tower I decided to use was fold down for easy maintenance, it consists of 50mm by 5000mm square tubing for the main base that was concreted at the bottom and bolted to the shed at the top. Then a 50mm diameter pipe 4000mm long with a pivot in the middle for lowering and raising.
Rewiring a SmartDrive motor for hydro/wind generator
Generally, the reason why you rewire it is because it lowers the voltage and increases the available amperage, making the generator more suitable for 12v - 24v systems.
If you are planning to rewire one of these Fisher and Paykel/Whirlpool motors, etc., I would recommend doing so on a copper stator as the 36 pole aluminum wired ones are difficult to solder.
I rewired a copper 42 pole stator, but all you really have to do for other stators is to follow the diagram carefully, you should be able to locate the sections and wires on the stator easily; And when snipping a wire, cut in the center of it (where it connects 2 poles).
This is a tutorial for my smart drive base wind turbine. this is a complex project and i had already built it before i started this tutorial so it wont go into everything but i will try.
Materials:
50mmX75mmX600mm box section steel (for frame)
Solid or laminated wood suitable for blades.(will get sizes when we get to that step)
Two smart drive washing machine motors, including bearings and two shafts.
some plywood or metal sheet for the tail.
50mmX5000mm thick walled pipe (for top of tower)
Thick walled pipe with an inside diameter of 50mm and 150mm long for pivot.
some 20mmX2000mm pipe for tail
other assorted pieces of small metal for other parts we will get to.
lots of thick gauge insulated wire (for rewiring stators)
50mmX5000mm box section for tower.
Heavy gauge insulated two core wire to run the power from your wind turbine to where you want the power.
Tools:
Welder
hacksaw
grinder
drill and drill bits
bandsaw
tablesaw
thicknesser (i used this for machining parts of the blades but this maybe done by hand.)
carving tools
other assorted hand tools.
The frame is made out of 75mmX50mm hollow steel, with an angle section welded on one end to act as a rest for the tail and a section of one of the shafts of the smart drive washing machine motor has been welded on an angle of 30 degrees back and to the side away from the stator to provide furling for the tail. The bearing mount for the generators is made out of some flat stock and round stock with a bolt to lock the bearing assembly in. To make this simpler I would do way with the mount that I made and make u-bolts to go over the bearing assembly and lock it down on the frame. The swivel is a piece of the 75mmX50mm box section with a 150mm length of 50mm inside diameter pipe welded on the bottom for the swivel. This is all held on by two u-bolts to allow adjustment for the furling.
The tail is the 200mmX20mm steel pipe welded to a section of pipe with a 30mm inside diameter at an angle of 55 degrees with a gusset for strength, this is the swivel end. The other end has a piece of plywood or metal sheet bolted to it, this needs to be about 700mm square at least.
to mount the two stators on one shaft the shaft had to be modified the spline has been extended to fit new position of the magnetic rotor this was done by an engineer. The bearing holder is set up so the stator can go on both ends so the second stator was just bolted on the other end.
The tower I decided to use was fold down for easy maintenance, it consists of 50mm by 5000mm square tubing for the main base that was concreted at the bottom and bolted to the shed at the top. Then a 50mm diameter pipe 4000mm long with a pivot in the middle for lowering and raising.
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