How to Make a PVC Water / Air / Vacuum Pump!
In this project you'll learn how to make a customizable PVC hand pump that will create vacuum suction, pump water, or compress air.
WARNING: Power tools, like a table saw, pose risks of serious injury. Adequate training and experience are required before operating. The results and claims of this pump are based solely on my personal experiences with the one demonstrated in the video. Individual results may vary. The pump is a simple design and not made, or claimed, to be used in any heavy duty operations, or relatively high pressures. Use of this content is at your own risk.
Whether you're using vacuum power, moving water, or compressing air, chances are you're using some type of a pump.
I thought it might be good to build a simple pump, mainly for learning purposes, and I wanted to do it with low cost materials.
I was inspired on the pump piston and chamber by a picture I saw on a google image search by someone who used the 1-1/4" and 1" sizes of tubes, and he mentioned he cut the grooves for the O-rings on a table saw. That was a new idea to me and gave me the inspiration to put this together.
You can see here that the 1" pipe fits closely inside of the 1-1/4" PVC pipe.
There is just a little gap, but we actually need this to be air-tight to make a proper piston.
The best way that I know of to make an air-tight seal, is by using some rubber O-rings.
To cut grooves for the rings, I used a table saw, and adjusted the blade by holding the pipe flat on the table top, and lowering the blade until I could see that it would only cut about halfway through the plastic. The goal is to make a nice groove for the O-ring, but not to compromise the structural integrity of the PVC pipe too much.
I cut 2 grooves for redundancy. One at 1", and another at 2" marks.
I used some wooden braces to keep the pipe steady, and made the cuts by using one hand to hold the pipe on the blade, and the other hand to rotate the pipe slowly. Of course safety and caution are top priorities when working around power tools and open cutting blades.
The O-rings fit perfectly into place.
This end of the pipe also needs to be capped off to seal it air tight.
You can't really tell in the picture, but I've glued on an end plug that is solid. In the diagram I said it was a 1" plug, but in reality it was a 3/4" plug that I sanded down to fit inside the end of this 1" pipe.
Now this end of the tube is completely sealed.
To finish the piston, we need to do a little work on the exterior tube.
I got a 1-1/4" slip cap and used a 1-3/8" forstner bit to drill a hole in the center.
An O-ring was added into the inside of the cap around the hole, and put to the side for a minute.
To insert the piston, the O-rings need some lubrication, or the friction on the inside walls of the pipe will damage them. I used Vaseline, but some people have suggested Vaseline will eat the O-rings over time, and that some type of silicon grease would be better.
To the bottom of the 1-1/4" pipe I cemented on the coupling, 3/4" reducer bushing, short riser, and threaded Tee.
With the 2 O-rings lubricated, the piston should push air-tight into the larger pipe.
The modified slip cap can be cemented on top now, and when the piston is bottomed out, there should just be a couple of inches of pipe poking out the top.
I chose to paint the fittings black, and the pipe blue, just for contrast.
The handle is made from 2 pieces of 4-1/2" x 1" PVC pipe cut from the scraps off of the piston.
Everything is cemented together as shown in the picture, and when the handle is complete, it cements onto those couple of inches of piston pipe sticking out of the hydraulic piston chamber.
This completes the piston, and adding 2 check valves to the threaded Tee at the bottom will complete the pump!
Since the check valves are threaded, they can be moved around, changed out, or positioned in many creative ways.
Using additional PVC pipe and fittings opens up many different options. The imagination is the limitation.
You could try making this into a pump to move water vertically, or leverage it with your feet for more of a bilge pump type approach.
This pump seemed to move just over 2 cups of water per cycle.
How to Make a PVC Water / Air / Vacuum Pump!
In this project you'll learn how to make a customizable PVC hand pump that will create vacuum suction, pump water, or compress air.
WARNING: Power tools, like a table saw, pose risks of serious injury. Adequate training and experience are required before operating. The results and claims of this pump are based solely on my personal experiences with the one demonstrated in the video. Individual results may vary. The pump is a simple design and not made, or claimed, to be used in any heavy duty operations, or relatively high pressures. Use of this content is at your own risk.
Whether you're using vacuum power, moving water, or compressing air, chances are you're using some type of a pump.
I thought it might be good to build a simple pump, mainly for learning purposes, and I wanted to do it with low cost materials.
I was inspired on the pump piston and chamber by a picture I saw on a google image search by someone who used the 1-1/4" and 1" sizes of tubes, and he mentioned he cut the grooves for the O-rings on a table saw. That was a new idea to me and gave me the inspiration to put this together.
You can see here that the 1" pipe fits closely inside of the 1-1/4" PVC pipe.
There is just a little gap, but we actually need this to be air-tight to make a proper piston.
The best way that I know of to make an air-tight seal, is by using some rubber O-rings.
To cut grooves for the rings, I used a table saw, and adjusted the blade by holding the pipe flat on the table top, and lowering the blade until I could see that it would only cut about halfway through the plastic. The goal is to make a nice groove for the O-ring, but not to compromise the structural integrity of the PVC pipe too much.
I cut 2 grooves for redundancy. One at 1", and another at 2" marks.
I used some wooden braces to keep the pipe steady, and made the cuts by using one hand to hold the pipe on the blade, and the other hand to rotate the pipe slowly. Of course safety and caution are top priorities when working around power tools and open cutting blades.
The O-rings fit perfectly into place.
This end of the pipe also needs to be capped off to seal it air tight.
You can't really tell in the picture, but I've glued on an end plug that is solid. In the diagram I said it was a 1" plug, but in reality it was a 3/4" plug that I sanded down to fit inside the end of this 1" pipe.
Now this end of the tube is completely sealed.
To finish the piston, we need to do a little work on the exterior tube.
I got a 1-1/4" slip cap and used a 1-3/8" forstner bit to drill a hole in the center.
An O-ring was added into the inside of the cap around the hole, and put to the side for a minute.
To insert the piston, the O-rings need some lubrication, or the friction on the inside walls of the pipe will damage them. I used Vaseline, but some people have suggested Vaseline will eat the O-rings over time, and that some type of silicon grease would be better.
To the bottom of the 1-1/4" pipe I cemented on the coupling, 3/4" reducer bushing, short riser, and threaded Tee.
With the 2 O-rings lubricated, the piston should push air-tight into the larger pipe.
The modified slip cap can be cemented on top now, and when the piston is bottomed out, there should just be a couple of inches of pipe poking out the top.
I chose to paint the fittings black, and the pipe blue, just for contrast.
The handle is made from 2 pieces of 4-1/2" x 1" PVC pipe cut from the scraps off of the piston.
Everything is cemented together as shown in the picture, and when the handle is complete, it cements onto those couple of inches of piston pipe sticking out of the hydraulic piston chamber.
This completes the piston, and adding 2 check valves to the threaded Tee at the bottom will complete the pump!
Since the check valves are threaded, they can be moved around, changed out, or positioned in many creative ways.
Using additional PVC pipe and fittings opens up many different options. The imagination is the limitation.
You could try making this into a pump to move water vertically, or leverage it with your feet for more of a bilge pump type approach.
This pump seemed to move just over 2 cups of water per cycle.
No comments:
Post a Comment