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Sunday, February 26, 2023

on video How to Make a Wireless Walkie-Talkie Using Arduino at Home


 How to Make a Wireless Walkie-Talkie Using Arduino at Home

Hi everyone in this instructable I will show you how to do wireless communication with Arduino with the NRF24L01 wireless communication module, to show you the capabilities of the latter here is an example which is complete, which allows you to send different type of information such as analog values with the potentiometer or other discrete All or Nothing type input that sends digital information such as the push buttons on my breadboard, all operating in full-duplex, i.e. communicating simultaneously in both directions, I will show you how to do this but first let's look at this NRF24L01 module.

The NRF24L01 module is a low transmit power transceiver that communicates information via the 2.4GHz ISM bands such as WiFi, it has 125 Channels with 1MHz spacing which means the module can go from 2.4GHz to 2.525GHz, each channel can have more than 6 addresses, I let you already imagine the possibilities offered by this module, especially since it consumes very little current of the order of ten mA see less depending on the modes of use, it operates at a voltage of 3.3V which means that it would require a voltage adaptation stage with the Arduino because it operates at 5V, this module communicates in SPI field protocol , there are two versions of the NRF24L01, there is the classic NRF24L01 module it can reach a range of 50m in an enclosed place and the version I have with an antenna and amplifier which can theoretically go to 1Km, in fact it is 200 to 400m depending on the electromagnetic environment where you live iter and much less in closed environments.

For the wiring part we will need two NRF24L01 modules for my part I have the nrf24l01 PA LNA which embeds a 3db omnidirectional antenna which has more range than the classic module, so be very careful this module does not operate with the same voltage levels than the Arduino, the nrf24l01 operates at a voltage of 3.3V and the Arduino 5V, to do this there are a thousand and one solutions but the simplest and safest is to buy small modules which integrate a LM1117 voltage step-down specially made for the nrf24l01, it is inexpensive and for the function carried out it saves you a lot of problems, on the diagram I did not have the representation of the step-down module but the idea is there, I tell you I put the screen of the module next to it (see photo). For the Arduino I use an Arduino nano with an Atmega168 µC it works with Arduino uno and pro for the other versions of the AVR family µCs you must refer to the µC datasheet and the library because the SPI bus pins do not are not the same and some libraries do not take into account some µC. Regarding the wiring between the Arduino and the NRF24L01 the pins are common between the transmitter and the receiver as well as the led and the push button, for the transmitter module which will be differentiated by its red led there will be a 10k potentiometer which will control the servomotor of the receiver part, for the receiver part always the same diagram except that there will be a servomotor which will receive the signal coming from the transmitter, with this you have a complete example which sends and receives digital information and analog all in full duplex, of course you can replace the push buttons and potentiometer with sensors or something else of your wish depending on your use, it can be a remote control for a remote controlled plane or car or a security system or home automation to name just a few.


Having trouble getting your NRF24L01 to work?

For those who encounter problems operating their modules, you can add a 10µF capacitor with electrolyte between the Vcc and the gnd of the nrf24l01 module, generally this kind of problem disappears when you go to a PCB soldering there is less of a problem of CEM than with a breadboard and also you can power your Arduino and module on a stabilized 5v power supply or simply the 5V 1A of a phone charger there will be ten times less disturbance than the conventional PC USB power supply (avoids common mode disturbances and other interference).


 How to Make a Wireless Walkie-Talkie Using Arduino at Home

Hi everyone in this instructable I will show you how to do wireless communication with Arduino with the NRF24L01 wireless communication module, to show you the capabilities of the latter here is an example which is complete, which allows you to send different type of information such as analog values with the potentiometer or other discrete All or Nothing type input that sends digital information such as the push buttons on my breadboard, all operating in full-duplex, i.e. communicating simultaneously in both directions, I will show you how to do this but first let's look at this NRF24L01 module.

The NRF24L01 module is a low transmit power transceiver that communicates information via the 2.4GHz ISM bands such as WiFi, it has 125 Channels with 1MHz spacing which means the module can go from 2.4GHz to 2.525GHz, each channel can have more than 6 addresses, I let you already imagine the possibilities offered by this module, especially since it consumes very little current of the order of ten mA see less depending on the modes of use, it operates at a voltage of 3.3V which means that it would require a voltage adaptation stage with the Arduino because it operates at 5V, this module communicates in SPI field protocol , there are two versions of the NRF24L01, there is the classic NRF24L01 module it can reach a range of 50m in an enclosed place and the version I have with an antenna and amplifier which can theoretically go to 1Km, in fact it is 200 to 400m depending on the electromagnetic environment where you live iter and much less in closed environments.

For the wiring part we will need two NRF24L01 modules for my part I have the nrf24l01 PA LNA which embeds a 3db omnidirectional antenna which has more range than the classic module, so be very careful this module does not operate with the same voltage levels than the Arduino, the nrf24l01 operates at a voltage of 3.3V and the Arduino 5V, to do this there are a thousand and one solutions but the simplest and safest is to buy small modules which integrate a LM1117 voltage step-down specially made for the nrf24l01, it is inexpensive and for the function carried out it saves you a lot of problems, on the diagram I did not have the representation of the step-down module but the idea is there, I tell you I put the screen of the module next to it (see photo). For the Arduino I use an Arduino nano with an Atmega168 µC it works with Arduino uno and pro for the other versions of the AVR family µCs you must refer to the µC datasheet and the library because the SPI bus pins do not are not the same and some libraries do not take into account some µC. Regarding the wiring between the Arduino and the NRF24L01 the pins are common between the transmitter and the receiver as well as the led and the push button, for the transmitter module which will be differentiated by its red led there will be a 10k potentiometer which will control the servomotor of the receiver part, for the receiver part always the same diagram except that there will be a servomotor which will receive the signal coming from the transmitter, with this you have a complete example which sends and receives digital information and analog all in full duplex, of course you can replace the push buttons and potentiometer with sensors or something else of your wish depending on your use, it can be a remote control for a remote controlled plane or car or a security system or home automation to name just a few.


Having trouble getting your NRF24L01 to work?

For those who encounter problems operating their modules, you can add a 10µF capacitor with electrolyte between the Vcc and the gnd of the nrf24l01 module, generally this kind of problem disappears when you go to a PCB soldering there is less of a problem of CEM than with a breadboard and also you can power your Arduino and module on a stabilized 5v power supply or simply the 5V 1A of a phone charger there will be ten times less disturbance than the conventional PC USB power supply (avoids common mode disturbances and other interference).

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